Installing Laminate Countertops

Cut the hole for the sink after the underlayment is installed but before you install the laminate. Most sinks require a 21-1/4-in. x 32-1/4-in. hole, but make sure you have your sink on hand so you'll know what size hole to cut. Cut the back side of the hole with an oscillating tool, and then cut the sides and front with a jigsaw.

There can be a small gap between the underlayment boards, but the seam has to be absolutely flat. Mark the seam with a pencil, then sand with 50-grit paper until the lines disappear.

Cut the main top piece of the laminate with a circular saw. Use a board to create a space so the saw blade doesn't grind into the floor. Avoid scratches by sticking a few strips of masking tape to the underside of your saw base. The front side of the laminate will hang over the edge and be trimmed off, so your cuts don't need to be perfect.

Cut the end cap so the bottom portion and the very top are close enough to be cleaned up with a file. The rest will be trimmed with a router. Cut the end cap to size with snips, then paint a thin layer of glue on both surfaces. Let the glue dry just until it's no longer wet to the touch, then carefully line up the top and ends and tip the piece into place. Embed the end cap by lightly tapping the whole surface with a smooth, burr-free hammer, and then it's ready for the router.

Before you get your first whiff of glue, make sure every piece fits. The top of the backsplash will need to be scribed and trimmed down. Use a small silver marker to scribe the top, and then carefully cut it with tin snips.

To avoid cracking the laminate, don't cut more than 1/4 in. at a time. Clean up the edge with a belt sander.

Tin snips are a good tool for cutting the scribed line.

Clean all surfaces with compressed air before gluing up the top surface. Cover the perimeter with a brush and then grab a scrap piece of laminate to spread on the rest. Apply the glue on the underlayment the same way. It gets messy trying to glue the backsplash after the top is installed, so cover the backsplash with glue at the same time. And this stuff is a potent chemical, so always use an organic vapor respirator, open a window and turn on the exhaust fan.

Laminate adhesive is sometimes referred to as “contact cement” because it sets as soon as the two coated surfaces come into contact. That's not necessarily a good thing when you're trying to maneuver a large, floppy sheet into place. Cut strips of leftover laminate and use them as spacers. Because the adhesive won't stick to the strips, you'll be able to slide the sheet around. Start pulling out the spacers once the top sheet is in position. Make sure the spacers are clean so they don't leave debris behind.

A router won't be able to reach the inside corner of the backsplash, so use tin snips to trim it down before you install it (make small cuts). That way you won't have as much material to remove with your file. Press the section on with a board the same way you did the top. The top cap piece is set into place with a hammer.

Use your router to trim the hole for the sink. Just poke through the material with a spinning bit and work your way to the edge. Right before you finish the cut, support the scrap material so it doesn't fall down and tear out the last little section.

Once all the pieces are in place, file all the edges, including the bottom. You can buy a file especially designed for plastic laminate for less than $20 online. Always file in a downward direction, never back and forth. Clean off excess glue with lacquer thinner or whatever solvent your adhesive manufacturer recommends.