31 Tips for Repairing, Updating and Maximizing Your Deck

A deck doesn't need to be big in size to be big on features. We've got the plans for everything you've ever wanted in a deck: cantilevered seating nooks, a cedar pergola for shade, detailed horizontal railings and cascading stairs, to name a few. It's the perfect space to fire up the grill, read a book, enjoy breakfast or set up a hammock for afternoon open-air naps. It's a big project, but one that you could complete in about two weeks if you've got some carpentry skills and a buddy. We've mapped out all the steps you need to achieve this unique, dreamy outdoor space–get the plans here.

You don't have to let the blazing sun or drippy weather drive you indoors. This simple covered pergola will keep you and your guests comfortable in any weather. Get step-by-step plans here.

Does your deck umbrella always seem to be in the wrong spot to shade you from the sun? To help get it in the right spot, mount several sets of galvanized plumbing pipe straps on the deck posts or railing in key places. Use straps with a slightly wider diameter than that of the umbrella pole. Then slip the umbrella pole through the straps until the bottom of the pole rests on the deck. Now you can put shade right where you need it.

Decks are meant to enable you to spend your days in the fresh open air, but sometimes the heat can be prohibitive. To shade your space (and block harmful ultraviolet rays) there are many different options on the market designed to fit a variety of budgets, styles and deck sizes. Canopy awnings, for example, may be a good fit if you're looking for a permanent structure that won't retract, but can be removed seasonally if desired. Retractable awnings offer the choice of shade or sun instantly. If you'd prefer more of a built-in structure, building a pergola or a covered deck may be a better choice. To read more on these options and more, check out our guide to shading your outdoor space.

These yellow deck board spacers can be used to space boards either 1/8 in. or 3/16 in. apart. Large spacers like these work well because they're easy to grab and pull out, and less likely to fall down between the boards. They're also highly visible, which makes them less of a trip hazard. You can find deck spacers at some home centers or online.

In addition to selecting the color of deck boards, you'll also have to decide on the color of the fascia boards, railings, spindles, hardware, posts and caps. And those aren't easy decisions, especially when all you have to go on is a brochure with tiny color swatches. Azek has a new, free app for the iPad that can help. Check it out at Azek.com or the App Store on iTunes. The app allows you to change the color and texture on several different stock deck scenes, and once you find the combination that suits you best, there's a place to keep notes so you won't forget and have to start all over.

Visualizers like this are super handy, but nothing beats a trip to the supplier to check out samples of the actual products. Feel the texture of the materials and if there's a display, take off your shoes and walk around on it.

Photo provided by Azek

Deck ledger boards are a common source of water infiltration, and it can be years before you discover the damage caused by water finding its way behind the ledger and into your home. The process below may seem a little excessive, but the extra time spent following these steps may save you thousands of dollars in repairs.

1. Install house wrap on the wall several inches higher than where the top of the ledger board will be.
2. Install Z-flashing approved for pressure-treated lumber where the bottom of the ledger will be.
3. Cover the top of the Z-flashing with house wrap tape.
4. Fasten the ledger board over the Z-flashing.
5. Install flashing approved for pressure-treated lumber on top of the ledger.
6. Cover the top of the flashing with window/door flashing tape.
7. Install house wrap over the flashing.
8. Fasten the house wrap to the wall with house wrap tape.
9. Install the siding.

Structural screws work great for hanging a ledger board and fastening thick framing members. The main advantage of structural screws over traditional lag screws is that they don't need a pilot hole, which cuts the installation time in half! The Strong-Drive TIMBER Screws shown here have a low-profile head and are driven in with a large Torx bit. An 18-volt impact driver or 1/2-in. drill should be enough to get the job done.

The ends of manufactured deck boards are ugly, and you don't want to leave them exposed. There are a couple ways to hide them. The easiest solution is to raise the fascia board so the top is flush with the top of the decking (top). But keep in mind that most fascia/skirt boards are 11-1/4 in. wide, which means they aren't wide enough to fully cover both the deck boards and a 2x12 joist.

Another way to hide the ends is to install a border/perimeter board around the outside edges of the deck (bottom). This method can really dress up your deck, especially if you choose an accent color for this board. The downside of a perimeter board is that it requires extra framing underneath.

Engineered lumber has been used inside buildings for years because it's stronger and straighter than regular lumber. And now there are versions for outdoor use. It may not be cost effective to frame an entire deck with engineered lumber, but installing an engineered-lumber drop beam is a great way to reduce the number of posts and footings needed to support a deck. The one shown here is made by Weyerhaeuser.

Photo provided by Weyerhaeuser

Screwing through the face of the boards is by far the fastest, easiest and most structurally sound method of fastening deck boards. Modern deck screws have reverse threads to suck the decking down tight to the joists and specially designed heads to prevent mushrooming. Some face-screwing systems, like the Cortex system from FastenMaster, allow you to countersink the screws and fill the holes with plugs made out of the same material as the decking. Installing the plugs is time consuming, but the fastener locations are almost invisible.

Boards with grooves on the sides can be held down with hidden fasteners. Hidden fasteners are self-gapping and easy to install, and you can't beat them if you want a nice, clean, fastener-free look. Each decking manufacturer has a recommended fastening system. Avoid the kind that require fastening from underneath. Also select a fastening system that doesn't require removing half the deck in order to replace one damaged board in the middle.

Pressure-treated lumber that stays wet will eventually rot. Flashing tape keeps water from getting trapped between doubled-up joists. If you're resurfacing an existing deck frame, tape over any joists that have a lot of holes from the previous nails or screws. Buy black tape if you can find it; shiny silver and white tapes may be noticeable between the gaps in the decking. The tape shown will be covered by the perimeter deck board.

Manufactured decking isn't as stiff as wood decking, so it allows joists to bow. And that leads to a wavy deck surface. To help keep joists flat, always attach blocking perpendicular to the joists. Also, install diagonal blocking to keep the entire frame from racking. Use narrower lumber (2x8 blocking on 2x10 joists) so the blocking looks less conspicuous from a distance. Once everything is secure, run a string on the top side of the joists and plane down the remaining high spots.

One way to spruce up posts is to cover them with a maintenance-free material. AZEK makes a PVC Column Wrap that's super easy to install. Simply glue together three sides, slide them over the post, glue and clamp the last side in place, and then never worry about painting or staining again. AZEK Column Wrap is available for 4x4, 6x6 and 8x8 posts. Order it at home centers and lumberyards that carry Azek products.

New metal balusters can give your existing wood deck a sleek, modern look. These two options are made by Deckorators. The Baroque Balusters are simply screwed to rails. The round Classic Balusters are held in place by hidden connectors that require no hole drilling. Deckorators balusters don't need to be painted or stained, which is probably the most tedious deck maintenance task there is.

Some pros have given up constructing concrete deck footings. Instead, they're using the Diamond Pier foundation system. To install a Diamond Pier footing, just drive in four pipes with a demo hammer. That eliminates a ton of digging and concrete work.

The standard deck model is the DP-50. Most home centers and lumberyards that carry this product will also have breaker hammers you could borrow or rent. Check out the videos at pinfoundations.com. The Diamond Pier system is relatively new, and you need to make sure it's approved in your area.

When you're screwing decking, this Smart-Bit Deck Screw Depth Setter is a great tool to make sure all the screws are set at a consistent depth. The type of bit can be changed to match the screws, and the depth of the screws can be adjusted. This tool also has a free-spinning collar with a rubber bumper to prevent marring.

DuxxBak decking is a unique composite decking that doesn't allow water to pass between the deck boards, keeping the area under the deck dry. A dry space under the deck is a great place to continue your deck party during a rain shower, or to create some useful dry storage.

In order to channel the water away, the decking needs to run perpendicular to the house, so remember to install the framing joists parallel to the house. And make sure the substructure has enough slope to carry the water away.

Go to greenbaydecking.com to find more information on DuxxBak and locate a dealer.