Super Storage-Simplified
Updated: Jan. 28, 2022Simple and inexpensive, with huge storage capacity.
Reconfigure as your needs change
The items on your wall may come and go as your hobbies and storage requirements evolve. The beauty of this system is that you can rearrange shelves, add or substitute pegboard accessories, and even mount hanging systems that are designed for ordinary walls, so your wall will always suit your needs.
Time: 1 to 3 days
Skill Level: Intermediate
Cost: $80 per 4’x8′ bay
For indoor storage ideas click here.
Features of this design include:
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Flip-up workbench
Flip it up when you need it; fold it down when you don’t.
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Pegboard accessories
Dozens of brackets are available to hang just about anything.
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Dedicated storage
Install 2×4 backers to hold storage brackets and hooks.
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Adjustable shelves
Reposition shelves as your needs change.
The Project Plans:
It’s mostly framing lumber and pegboard
Check out the image above to get the gist of the construction. After you establish the 2×2 grid work, frame the perimeter with 2x10s. Then you cut the pegboard to fit and screw or glue it to the grid work. If you choose glue, you’ll have to tack it in place until the glue sets. Then add the 2×8 partitions directly over the pegboard seams. Use a 4-ft. level to make sure those are plumb so your shelves will fit in any location within each bay. Screw all the framing in place by end-screwing or toe-screwing as needed with 3-in. screws. We show this project on a finished wall. But there’s no reason you can’t install it over exposed studs or even a concrete or block wall. If you’re installing it over masonry, anchor the 2x2s with 3-in. concrete screw anchors (Tapcon is one brand). If the concrete is frequently damp, use treated 2x2s and they’ll last forever.
Learn how to properly glue wood here.
Size it for your garage and storage needs
Think of this project in terms of 4 x 8-ft. bays. They can be vertical like ours or horizontal if that better fits your needs. Do one bay or as many as you want; the construction is the same.
Now, about the pegboard
If you’re willing to shop around, you can find a lot of pegboard choices: thick, thin, metal, custom colors, etc. But if you shop at home centers or lumberyards, you generally only find 3/16-in.-thick plain brown and pegboard coated on one side with white melamine (Photo with step 5 below). Either one will work fine for this project. Get the plain stuff if you want to paint it a color or white if you’re fine with that. If you do have choices, pick the thickest available with the larger (1/4-in.) holes. While you’re at the store, check out the pegboard accessories. You’ll find all kinds of baskets, brackets, hooks, screwdriver holders, etc., designed to hang just about anything you can think of. Wait until the project is done and think it through before buying any at this point. Pegboard is dusty and messy to cut. Do it outside if you can or your entire garage and everything in it will be covered with dust. Wear a dust mask. Make your cuts with the good side down to eliminate tear-out on the show side.
For more pegboard project ideas click here.
Directions:
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Establish the bottom first
Measure up from the floor 12 in., then measure down to get the distance from the ceiling. Transfer that measurement to the other end of the wall and snap the bottom line for the base of the pegboard wall. Measure up from the bottom chalk line 93-1/8 in. and snap the top chalk line. Then snap horizontal lines spaced every 2 ft. from the top. Use a level to mark the stud centers and the other end of the wall.
Learn how to use a chalk line here.
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Begin Framing at the end of the wall
Cut the two 2x10s to 99-1/8 in. long (one for each end). Center one above and below the top and bottom chalk lines and screw it to the corner blocking. There should be blocking extending at least 1 in. away from the corner. Center an 8-ft. 2×2 between the 2×10 ends, and screw it into place with 3-in. screws. -
Build the grid work
Center and screw the last vertical 2×10 to the end 2×2. Cut the horizontal 2x10s so any splices will fall over the 2×8 dividers. (Get a helper to support the boards for this part.) Then begin attaching the horizontal 2x10s to the end 2x10s and to the horizontal 2x2s with 3-in. screws. -
Build the 2×10 frame
Center and screw the last vertical 2×10 to the end 2×2. Cut the horizontal 2x10s so any splices will fall over the 2×8 dividers. (Get a helper to support the boards for this part.) Then begin attaching the horizontal 2x10s to the end 2x10s and to the horizontal 2x2s with 3-in. screws.
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Install the Pegboard
Cut the 2×8 dividers to length, and then center them over the pegboard seams. Plumb them with a 4-ft. level and screw them to the top and bottom 2x10s. Then toe-screw them to the horizontal 2x2s
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Add the Dividers
Cut the 2×8 dividers to length, and then center them over the pegboard seams. Plumb them with a 4-ft. level and screw them to the top and bottom 2x10s. Then toe-screw them to the horizontal 2x2s. -
Screw in the shelf standards
Mount the standards on the dividers. Then cut the 2×8 shelves 1/4 in. shorter than the space between the standards and rest them on shelf standard brackets. -
Work Bench Plans
Our bench is 40 in. high and can be folded down into its own bay when you’re not using it. The height is based on the pegboard wall base being located 1 ft. above the floor and the how-to steps shown in the Photos with steps 8 – 11. If youwant a different height, you’ll have to do some design work. But make sure to allow for a 1-1/2-in.gap between the bottom of the bench and the 2×10 when it’s folded down. You’ll need that gap for your fingers to safely open and close the bench. -
Assemble the workbench frame
Build a 2×2 framework 24 in. deep and 2 in. narrower than the bay opening you intend to install it in. -
Sheathe the top and bottom
Cover both sides with 1/2-in. particleboard. Use it to square the ladder as you glue and nail it to the 2x2s. Then add 1×3 edge banding to the bench edges. To build a bench to match this one, you’ll need a 4 x 4-ft. sheet of 1/2-in. particleboard, two 8-ft. 2x2s and two 8-ft. 1x3s for trim for the edges. -
Add the folding shelf brackets
Cut 27-in.-long 2×4 hinge supports and screw them through the pegboard into the 2x2s with 3-in. screws. Then attach the folding shelf brackets with 1-1/2-in. washer-head screws. You won’t find these special folding shelf brackets in stores. Search online for “KV 16″ Folding Shelf Bracket” and you’ll find plenty of sources—and varying prices too! We paid about $65 with shipping for both. Make sure you get two. It’s easy to misorder and only get one. It happened to us, folks! -
Attach the top from underneath
Rest the bench on the top, centered between the 2×8 uprights and 1/4 in. away from the pegboard, then screw it to the brackets from underneath with 1-1/2-in. washer-head screws.
Building Tips
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Paint before assembly
You’ll spend as much time painting as you do building this system. We primed all the lumber with Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3, not only to provide a good base for the paint, but also to keep knots from eventually bleeding through the color coat. Then we rolled on two coats of latex wall paint, eggshell sheen. A 3-in. roller frame with a 1/2-in.-nap sleeve works very well for all the painting. You can skip the paint tray and dip the sleeve right into the gallon paint can. We used prefinished white pegboard—no painting needed. If you want to custom-paint unfinished pegboard, rough up the surface with 100-grit sandpaper, then prime and paint it the same way. But use a 1/4-in.-nap roller to ensure thin coats. If you use a thick- nap roller, the peg holes will likely become plugged with paint. It took nearly a full gallon of paint to roll two coats over all the framing members.
Take a look at our expert painting tips here.
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Layout the 2×2 mounting grid
Study Figure A to help you digest the following layout directions. Measure from the floor to make a mark at 12 in. (Photo with step 1). Then measure down from the ceiling to the mark and transfer it to the other end of the pegboard wall. (Garage floors are rarely level, but you can usually trust the ceiling.) Snap the bottom line. Measure up from the bottom line 93-1/8 in. to snap the top line. The 2x2s will go below the bottom line and above the top line to give you 96-1/8 in. outside to outside when they’re in place. If your pegboard will butt against a wall, install the 2×10 end frame first and measure from that to establish the 20-ft. 1/4-in. vertical grid line at the other end. (Or make the line to suit the number of bays you wish to have: 4 ft. 1/4 in., 8 ft. 1/4 in., etc.) Then snap horizontal lines spaced about every 2 ft. for the 2x2s that support the pegboard. Lastly, use a 4-ft. level to mark the end of the wall and the center of each stud (Photo with step 2).
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Dealing with openings
Our expanse of plywood didn’t include any windows, doors or electrical outlets or switches, but yours might. Surround windows with 2x10s just like you did with the perimeter. But beware of doors. Putting a 2×10 on the hinge side of a door means it’ll open only 90 degrees. Experiment with the door swing to figure out which placement will work for you. If you have electrical boxes, you’re required by code to install box extenders so the outlet or switch will be flush with the pegboard surface.
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Sturdy, adjustable shelving
You can buy dedicated pegboard shelving brackets, but we wanted sturdy, adjustable 2×8 shelves, so we mounted 6-ft. shelf standards on most of the 2x8s (Photo with step 7). The 2x8s can span the full bay width without sagging. Unless you spend the time making all the bays exactly the same width, the shelf length will vary from one bay to the next.
Shopping Tips:
- After you establish how many bays you want, look at Figure A and count the parts. That’ll give you a pretty accurate custom materials list for the project.
- Choose the lengths of your 2x10s in multiples of 4 ft. That way, they’ll join directly over the pegboard splices, and the horizontal 2×10 splices will be sup- ported by the vertical 2x8s (Photo with step 4).
- Buy 10-ft.-long 2x10s for the end frames. The final lengths are a few inches longer than 8 ft.
- Pick horizontal frames in 4-ft. increments: 8 ft. for two bays, 12 ft. for three bays, etc.
- Get one 4 x 8-ft. sheet of pegboard for each bay.
- Buy four 8-ft. 2x2s for each bay.
- When it comes to hardware, buy a 1-lb. box of 3-in. screws and a 1-lb. box of 1-1/2-in. washer-head screws. You’ll have more than you need, but they’ll come in handy someday.
