Ultimate Tool Storage Cabinets

Cut the Edging Safely

• Clamp a stop block 3/16 in. from the blade.
  • Pro tip: Don’t simply set the fence 3/16 in. from the blade to cut the edging strips. That can lead to kickbacks when the thin strips get pinched between the fence and the blade.
• Set the stock against the stop block, position the fence against the stock and you’re ready to rip.
  • Note: You’ll need to reset the fence after each cut.

Tack On and Clamp the Edging

• Spread a little glue and tack the edging onto the plywood parts with a pinner or brad-nailer.
• Center the edging by “feel,” allowing it to overhang slightly on both sides.
  • Note: The edging can also overhang the plywood at one end. But the other end should be flush with the plywood.
• Clamp the edging.
  • Pro tip: Clamps alone won’t force the flimsy edging tight against the plywood. So use a thicker board or “caul” to distribute the pressure evenly.

Trim the Edging Flush

• • Pro tip: After the glue dries, the protruding edging needs to be flushed up to the plywood. You could use a sander, but you run the risk of sanding through the thin veneer and ruining the part. So use a trim router retrofitted with an offset base.
• Set the router on the plywood and lower the bit until it just touches and trim the edging flush to the plywood.
• Trim the cabinet parts to their final length on the table saw.
  • Pro tip: Set the fence a little long and use a miter gauge to cut one end. Then, set the fence to the final length and cut the opposite edge. This leaves your edging perfectly flush and square to the plywood on both ends.

Mount the Drawer Cleats

• Position the drawer-support cleats with scrap wood spacers.
  • Note: Use MDF spacers to ensure correct spacing. Use the same set of spacers on all four cabinet sides to ensure identical spacing.
• Set the cleats (GG, HH) on the lower cabinet sides with screws.
• Align the cleats flush with the front edge of the cabinet sides.
  • Pro tip: Leave a 1/4-in. gap at the back to prevent dust accumulation that would interfere with the drawer closing.

Assemble the Cabinets

• Assemble the lower cabinets, using trim-head screws for the top shelf.
  • Note: The bottom shelf is fastened with regular wood screws through the bottom cleat. Cut the backs and attach them with just a few screws for now.
• Assemble the upper cabinets with regular screws.
  • Note: They’ll be covered with trim later. The adjustable shelves are notched to prevent the shelves from accidentally pulling out when you drag your circular saw off the shelf.
• Attach the two base cabinets to each other with screws.
• Measure and cut the plywood top.
• Apply the edging (CC, DD) to the top with nails and glue, then clamp with cauls.
• Attach the top and set the upper cabinets.
• Join the upper cabinets with connector bolts.

Notch the Shelves

• Notch the shelves four at a time.
• Attach a wood sub-fence to your miter gauge.
• Clamp the shelves together then clamp the set to your subfence to gang-cut the notches.
• Shift the stack for each cut until the notch is cut full width.
• Lay out the notch locations on one shelf according to shelf standard spacing; 2 in. in from the front and back is about right.
• Make the notches 1/4 in. deep and 3/4 in. wide.

Bevel the Handle Stock

• Set the table saw blade to 45 degrees and mount featherboards on the table to hold the stock tight against the fence.
  • Pro tip: As you reach the end of the cut, drive the stock with a push stick to keep your fingers away from the blade.

Build the Drawers

• Cut the drawer parts (P – Y and BB).
• Use No. 6 x 1-5/8-in. trim-head screws to build the drawer boxes.
• Make sure the drawer is square, then secure the bottom with No. 6 x 1-in. screws.
  • Pro tip: Test the drawer fit in its opening on both cabinets. If the drawer slides smoothly, go ahead and assemble the other drawers. If it’s tight, trim the fronts and backs down a bit for a good fit.
• Countersink all the screw heads into the plywood bottom so they don’t interfere with the sliding of the drawer on the cleats.
• Remove the backs on the lower cabinets and set the drawers in their openings.
• Add a couple of short shims on the cabinet sides at the back of the cabinet to center the drawer when it’s shut.
• Glue the shims to the sides with the tapered edge facing forward.
  • Note: The shims ensure the drawer shuts in the same position each time. This will help maintain an even margin on the drawer fronts when the drawers are closed.
• Cut drawer fronts (H – M), leaving them a little oversize.
• Add edging to the bottom of each drawer front.
• Flush-trim the edging.
• Cut the drawer fronts to final length on the table saw.
• Add the trim to the sides, flush-trim and rip the drawer front to the final width.

Build the Handles

• Cut the drawer handle parts (EE, FF).
• Cut a 45-degree bevel on part EE.
• Glue and clamp the parts to form the handle.
• When the glue has set, sand the handles smooth and attach to the drawer fronts.
• Use glue and nails or trim-head screws to attach the handles.

Position the Drawers

• Screw stop blocks to the drawers so the drawer can’t be pulled all the way out and crash to the floor.
• With the drawers in their openings, hold the top drawer front in place so the bottom of the drawer front is flush with the bottom of the drawer box and even with the outside edge of the cabinet.
• Pin the drawer front in place with a brad nailer or a 23-gauge pin nailer.
• Carefully open the drawer by pushing on it from behind.
• Clamp the drawer front in place and secure with No. 10 x 1-in. washer head screws.
• Use a 3/32-in.-thick strip of wood to space the other drawer fronts as you work your way down.

• Figure B: Cleat Positions
• Figure A: Tool Cabinet
• Figure C: Cutting Diagrams
• Materials List
• Cutting List